2 Beautiful Barga: Another Trip Up the Garfagnana

In the week between "Speak and Cook" and "Speak and Walk" activities at Lucca Italian School, our teachers organized other opportunities for us to explore Lucca and the northern Tuscany countryside. One excursion took us back up the Garfagnana to the Serchio River valley where we'd gone to learn about making cheese and to visit the restored medieval castle. 

The destination on this trip was Barga, a village on the slopes of the Serchio where terraces of vineyards and trees stretch in every direction. Barga is medieval and some of the ancient walls still stand around the town. We climbed winding, one-horse-lane streets of stone to the upper town which is crowned by a Romanesque cathedral (the third of the following photos).

However, before we got to the top of the hill and the cathedral, we encountered another church. This intimate space was decorated with exquisite glazed terra cotta by Andrea della Robbia. Unlike other terra cottas by the della Robbia family that I would later see in Florence and Lucca churches, these were almost close enough to touch. (I am not quite tall enough! But I wouldn't have touched anyway!) Of all the art I have gazed upon in Italy, the della Robbia terra cotta pieces are among my favorites, whether hanging in the grand spaces of Santa Croce in Florence or in this little church in Barga. The third photo here is in a different style, but still by della Robbia, I believe.

At last, we achieved the summit and entered the cathedral built of white limestone, which is named for St. Christopher and features a huge wooden sculpture of him with the Christ child perched on one shoulder. Never can I remember seeing a male (as opposed to the Madonna) holding Christ and placed in the most prominent position in a church. And to be flanked by organ pipes just shatters all expectations. 

Another remarkable sight in the cathedral is the 12C marble ambo (I had to look this up; it means pulpit  in a Christian basilica) supported by two lions and a squatting man.

The lions look happy. They are slaying their prey.

The man looks less happy. He's waiting for his reward in heaven, I presume.

Although I worry I will overwhelm with photos of this incredible marble carving, I can't resist sharing one more that shows a bit of detail on the lectern.

As we had so many other afternoons in and around Lucca, we encountered thunder and lightning and rain, oh my! as we left the cathedral. But the changeable weather only added to the beauty of this mountain village.

Lower Barga before the downpour.

Barga after the deluge.

As we bid good-bye to beautiful Barga, we left the old town through a portal in the ancient wall which was decorated with -- you guessed it -- a della Robbia terra cotta. 

And out we went into a fresh and green land.

Ciao!